California's Southern Central Coast
by Betsy Husband
the santa barbara mission
Ventura Keys Harbor
Oxnard is the gateway to the Channel Island National Park shown here
CALIFORNIA IS MORE THAN A STATE — it’s a state of mind, where the dress code includes shorts and flip-flops year-round and exercise is simply a lifestyle.
The beach towns are responsible for this hip-chic way of life, and a 40-mile stretch of the Southern Central Coast has three that thrive in a Mediterranean climate. Santa Barbara, Ventura and Oxnard, while similar in many ways, strive hard to maintain their individuality. There’s enough diversion to stay active for weeks, but any one town makes for a perfect weekend getaway.
Sunshine beckons the young-at-heart to come out and play, and in Santa Barbara they take their play seriously. The smooth three-mile waterfront-walk begs for bikes, roller-blades and casual walkers. Beyond the sand, dolphins and surfers ride the waves together.
Reminiscent of a scene on the Riviera, hillside homes bask in golden light as the sun slips into the ocean. Seaside restaurants serve fish caught that day paired with fresh produce from a street market and wines from local vineyards. Visitors sip their favorite vintage while watching yachts glide into the harbor.
But there’s a twist. A group of tanned and toned bodies in board shorts and bikinis play beach volleyball as mothers on roller blades push baby strollers. Welcome to the American Riviera.
Santa Barbara
Get to know Santa Barbara on foot. Your walking options are unlimited, from the famous Red Tile Walking Tour to miles of hiking trails in Los Padres National Forest, minutes from downtown. A three-and-a-half-mile favorite walk (round-trip) follows Shoreline Drive from the Santa Barbara Harbor to the “Mesa.” If you’re lucky enough to be there on a Saturday during lobster season, October through March, go early and watch Sam Shrout selling live spiny lobster, crab and fish from his boat. Eyes light up and smiles appear in anticipation of a lobster dinner. Children watch in awe as Shrout cuts the claws off red rock crab, explaining that crab claws are a renewable resource if the crab is returned to the ocean where they can grow back again.
Head up the coast as it rises gradually to Shoreline Park, a grassy picnic area on the bluffs. Continue through a neighborhood lined with palm trees and blooming bougainvilleas. Here, vistas span the ocean. At the top of the hill the road intersects with Cliff Drive, where a grocery store stands ready to impress. In fact, it’s worth a visit to Santa Barbara to shop at Lazy Acres. By now you’ll be ready for a snack, and this is the place to find one. Serving everything from sushi and whole-grain salads to meatloaf, fresh breads and pastries, it has something for everyone. A pleasant dining area beckons. It’s an ideal spot to relax and enjoy your treats. Afterwards, cruise through the rest of the store just to take it all in; the fresh flowers and extensive wine selection will amaze you.
Although your return route is the same, the scenery changes. The new view captures fresh charm — the houses on the hills, the city, wharf and harbor, and sailboats flaunting their colorful spinnakers. This is Santa Barbara at its finest.
Ventura
Twenty-seven miles down the coast, Ventura is a destination in itself. Ethnic restaurants, boutiques and galleries surround the landmark Mission San Buenaventura. Established in 1782, it’s just a few blocks from Hell’s Angels headquarters. The odd juxtaposition reflects Ventura’s own fusion of old traditions and new ideas. The impressive State Historical Landmark City Hall, built in 1912, stands proudly at the top of California Street. Follow that thoroughfare to the ocean where a mile-long promenade extends from the pier to Surfer’s Point, a famous Ventura beach.
Todd Collart, a 35-year-resident, has been witness to the community’s growth. “Our downtown is the blue-collar antidote to tawny Santa Barbara. The second-hand thrift stores that we were so famous for are nearly all gone, but the few that still remain are like garnish on a dinner plate.” He pointed out that part of what makes Ventura special is that it’s a walkable city surrounded by two natural rivers with wetlands that attract several different species of birds.
The extensive bike trails and lovely climate draw world-class bicyclists for winter training here. Rent a bike from Ventura Bike Depot and ride the trail from the beach to Ojai, a small, upscale artist community 15 miles inland. It’s full of Beverly Hills-type shops, art galleries and restaurants du jour. It’s also fun to cruise the 13-mile coastal trail and watch sunbathers, sailboats, surfers and kiteboarders. You may want to drive to Ojai with your golf clubs—the Ojai Valley Inn and Spa has one of America’s premier championship courses—or pick up a game at the lovely Soule Park Golf Club, a public course with a spectacular view.
Patagonia — based in Ventura — has a retail store offering a wide selection of adventure wear. Down the street from Patagonia, Real Cheap Sports offers several brands of outdoor clothes and gear, including Patagonia, at outlet prices.
Warm, sunny autumn days are best spent on the water. At the Ventura Harbor, Ventura Boat Rentals offers a 40-minute narrated tour of the harbor, but you can also rent a boat by the hour or day. Whether you choose to go by kayak, paddleboat, electric craft or fishing rig, spend at least part of your day touring the Ventura Keys. This is the ultimate insider’s view of Ventura. Beautiful boats tied to private docks decorate homes that use the harbor as their playground. Your imagination will run wild as you skim along the water with a fish-eye view of the homes and boats.
The headquarters for the Channel Islands National Park is at the Ventura Harbor, and their visitor’s center is a good resource for information about the islands. A living tide pool and full-sized displays of island fauna along with a 20-minute video will entice you to spend a day on one of the islands. Rangers and volunteers can assist you in finding transportation.
In keeping with a Mediterranean theme, don’t pass up The Greek at the Harbor, a waterfront restaurant that serves a delicious lunch sampler including a selection of both hot and cold appetizers. A glass of Greek wine will complement both the food and the day.
Oxnard
Oxnard is sweet! The southernmost beach town on the Central Coast is the strawberry capital of the world and home to the J.M. Smucker Company’s fruit processing plant. On the south end of town, Herzog Wine Cellars’ state-of-the-art winery and tasting room offers an introduction to their award-winning selection. Try the perfect food and wine pairing for lunch or dinner at the Herzog on-site restaurant Tierra Sur. Chef Todd Aarons’ Mediterranean-inspired cuisine reflects an impressive résumé. His background includes the Zuni Café in San Francisco and the Savoy in New York.
Industry and agriculture are the pulse of this coastal community but the Channel Islands Harbor is its soul. Hollywood Beach sits on one side of the spit and the harbor on the other, so everything aquatic is within walking distance. Leave your car at Oxnard Beach Park, a large, grassy picnic area with ample parking. Walk south along the boardwalk to the new Embassy Suites Mandalay Beach Resort and rent a bike, surrey or scooter from Wheel Fun Rentals, or try your skills with surfing or kayaking lessons. After you’ve worked up your appetite, have breakfast or lunch at Mrs. Olson’s Coffee Hut, a friendly, local hangout between the beach and the harbor.
Across the street, grab a water taxi for a cheap harbor tour. As a gateway to the Channel Islands National Park, the harbor has many opportunities for adventure. Whale-watching tours are high on the list from January through March, and divers enjoy plying the spectacular waters around the Channel Islands. While in Oxnard, don’t miss the Ventura County Maritime Museum and its exquisite collection of ship models and world-class marine paintings.
Island Packers, the concessionaire for the national park, has boats leaving from both the Ventura Harbor and the Channel Islands Harbor. A day trip to hike on one of the islands often includes whale and dolphin sightings. Take water and food, as the islands have no amenities.
A favorite harbor activity is the progressive dining experience. The Harbor Water Taxi takes you from appetizers at one restaurant to entrées at another, ending with dessert at a third. Groups of at least six are required, and reservations must be made in advance to customize your own menu and itinerary. Grab some friends and have some fun!
Water, warm weather, plenty of activity and excellent restaurants — the Southern Central Coast has all of the advantages of Southern California, minus the crowds. This is my idea of a true Pacific paradise.
SkyWest Delta Connection serves these California Beach Towns with daily flights to and from Salt Lake City.
SkyWest United Express serves Imperial County with daily flights to and from Los Angeles.